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Thursday, October 10, 2019

Details of the Kinnaur, Spiti, Ladakh, etc. trip

All times are approximated to the nearest hour or half-hour.

14 September
03:30 Started from home (Hyderabad).
13:00 Lunch at Four Lane Restaurant on Nagpur Outer Ring Road.
14:00 Stopped by police on the Nagpur Outer Ring Road for vehicle documents checking.
19:30 Night stay at Hotel Vardhan in Narsinghpur MP.
20:00 Dinner at Chandralok Bhojanalay, followed by Mosambi juice at a nearby place.

15 September
07:00 Started from Narsinghpur MP.
07:15 Diesel full tank.
13:00 Lunch near Babina, on the way to Jhansi.
20:00 Dinner near the entrance of Yamuna Expressway in Agra.
21:00 Got onto the Expressway. Karthik drove for the next few hours (entire Expressway).

16 September
12:30 Reached Delhi. I took over the driver seat.
02:00 Diesel full tank in Delhi, just before entering Haryana.
02:30 Halted for few minutes at a Dhaba in Sonipat for Lassi.
09:00 Breakfast in Shimla. Brushed teeth beside the restaurant in the open.
13:00 Lunch at a small restaurant in Rampur Bushahr.
16:00 Checked in for night stay at Bhimkali temple complex in Sarahan.
19:00 Dinner at HPTDC hotel. It’s awesome!

17 September
08:00 Breakfast at HPTDC hotel Sarahan.
12:30 Bairang Nag temple in Sangla.
13:30 Lunch at Little Chef Restaurant in Sangla. We skipped Chitkul since the road up to Sangla was bad, and it seemed to get worse from there onwards. We thought it was wise to return to NH 504 instead of going for an adventure (as already advised by Kalyan previously).
18:00 Reached Kalpa. Took rooms at Hotel Parvoti, with a great view of Kinner Kailash.
19:30 Dinner at HPTDC. This wasn’t as great as the last one.

18 September
06:30 Checked out of the hotel and started.
07:30 Chandika Devi temple. The main doors were open but the inner temple was closed. We had some fresh apples for breakfast.
09:00 Breakfast at Little Chef Restaurant in Reckong Peo.
10:00 Khawangi mandir.
11:00 Diesel full tank.
12:00 Saw a board that we are driving on the world's most treacherous road. It was true. We encountered several water crossings, large stones on roads, landslides that narrowed the road, etc.
12:30 Ribba Khas waterfall.
13:30 Pooh Monument.
15:00 Reached Nako. Checked into Hotel Lake View.
16:00 Lunch at a small restaurant nearby.
17:00 Visited the monastery nearby. We walked around Nako Lake (it’s quite small).
20:00 Dinner in Lake View Hotel itself.

19 September
05:30 Struggled to start the car since the temperature was low. Luckily it started after 4-5 attempts.
06:00 Found hotel owner so that the gate could be unlocked.
08:30 Breakfast near Sumdo. Skipped Gyu mummy and monastery.
10:00 Tabo monastery. Very impressive.
12:00 Dhankar monastery. Impressive too.
15:00 Reached Kaza. Lunch at HPTDC. We were extremely disappointed, given our past experiences in earlier HPTDC restaurants.
16:00 Checked into Hotel Neemarise. We were surprised to hear that Kaza had water problems! The river Spiti was so close, and yet.
17:00 Kaza market shopping.
19:00 Dinner at Himalayan Cafe.

20 September
06:00 Started to Kibber village.
08:00 Reached Kibber gompa. Saw some wildlife from a long distance in Kibber Sanctuary, one of the world's highest-altitude.
09:00 Key monastery.
10:00 Komic village. Breakfast at the world’s highest-altitude restaurant. Followed by the Komic monastery. We also saw the world’s highest-altitude post office in Hikkim.
11:00 Huge statue of Buddha in Langza, a fossil village. We didn’t see any fossils there though.
14:00 Lunch at Kaza. We went to a nearby hospital for treatment, most likely AMS, for one of us.
16:00: Waited for almost 2 hours at the petrol pump to refuel. There was a power cut first, followed by the Diesel dispenser not working.
19:00 Got out of the petrol pump without a refuel. We had dinner at the Himalayan Cafe.
21:30 The petrol pump was empty now, so refueled and filled the tank. This was the world's highest-altitude petrol pump.

21 September
07:30 Started from Kaza. The plan was to reach Chandratal. We had some biscuits and chocolate for breakfast.
13:00 Got stopped at Losar by the guard at the check post. Apparently, there’s snow further ahead so we were advised to halt for the day there. Going any further was deemed unsafe. If weather permits, the guard indicated that we could continue our journey further, otherwise we may have to return the same way back to Shimla. The return thought was quite scary for us, given the distance, we came until then.
14:00 Checked into Hotel Tashi Gaystal. We had lunch in the hotel itself. I slept for a couple of hours.
17:00 Went to talk to the guard at the check post. We got to know more details about the situation. Apparently, someone died at Chandratal the previous day due to AMS. So some cleanup operations were going on in that route. We were cleared to proceed to our next destination for the following day. However, we were strongly advised by many to skip Chandratal and directly go to whatever our next destination was. Primarily 2 reasons. One: it’s terribly cold in Chandratal with a very high probability of snow. Two: roads are treacherous. The second reason hurts us more.
19:00 Dinner at a nearby restaurant. Local specialties, Thupka, and omelet.

22 September
06:30 We had difficulty starting the car due to very cold weather, we were told by the hotel owner that the temperature was perhaps -4C. Some people assisted us by pushing the vehicle and got it to start. We then decided to skip Chandratal since we weren't confident about how the vehicle would handle if it snowed.
07:00 After some idling to heat up the engine, we finally started from Losar. The plan was to halt at Jispa. Or if it gets dark sooner then Sissu. At any cost, we had to travel past Gramphoo as advised by the guard at check-post.
08:00 Breakfast in the car itself, the food we took.
13:00 Lunch too in the car. We ate sandwiches, prepared using the bread we bought at the Kaza market.
18:00 Crossed Gramphoo, onto Manali-Keylong-Leh highway. We were relieved as we got onto blacktop road after driving for almost 10 hours traveling just 80 km. The path from Losar to Gramphoo isn't a road, honestly. That's the most terrible stretch we have driven, ever. There were numerous water crossings, lots of large stones scraping the underbelly of the car, single-lane, etc. That's a challenge for experienced and good drivers too. It was truly the world's most treacherous road.
19:00 We decided to halt at Sissu instead of Jispa. After a short search, we decided on PLM Dhara Hotel. Had dinner there itself.

23 September
06:30 Started from the hotel. No restaurants opened yet.
08:00 Breakfast at Darcha in a small roadside Dhaba.
09:30 Crossed Bharatpur Nala. One of the most difficult parts of the day. Lots of stones scraped and hit the underbelly of the car.
13:00 Had lunch in the car again, completed the bread we had bought the other day.
19:00 Crossed Tanglangla Pass. Then driving in the dark from then onwards up to Leh.
22:00 Reached Leh. Checked into Hotel Rainbow. Had dinner there itself.

24 September
06:30 Started from the hotel. There were a lot of items to do in the day.
08:00 Breakfast at Gesmo restaurant in Leh Market.
09:00 Walked from there to Leh Palace. We were puffing and panting by the time we reached the top.
09:30 Visited Leh Palace.
10:00 Went to the permit office for stamping our permits. Took photocopies of each permit.
11:00 Visited Hall of Fame.
13:00 Lunch at Cafe Aroma near the entrance of Hall of fame.
14:30 Visited Thiksay monastery.
18:00 Back to Hall of Fame for the light show.
21:30 Dinner at Tibetan Kitchen in Leh Market.
23:00 Back to Hotel Rainbow.

25 September
08:00 Started from the hotel.
08:30 Visited Shanti Stupa. Ideally, we should have gone in the evening but it didn't fit our schedule.
09:30 Breakfast at Bon Appétit in Leh Market.
10:30 Went to the Tourist reception center for information.
11:00 Full tank Diesel.
17:00 Visited Diskit monastery. Maitreya statue.
20:00 Checked in to Horcho Guest House in Hunder. Had dinner there itself.

26 September
08:00 Started from the hotel.
09:00 Breakfast at Diskit monastery.
10:00 Visited Panamik Hot spring.
13:00 Samstanling monastery. It was closed, so we just went around outside.
15:00 Lunch at the Diskit monastery.
17:00 Diesel full tank at Diskit. We also got the car checked by a mechanic nearby for any issues due to some noise coming from under the engine. Found a Shock absorber was leaking.
17:30 Camel safari in Hunder Sand Dunes.
18:30 Went to Ladakhi Dance Show nearby.
19:30 Dinner at Horcho hotel.

27 September
06:00 Started from the hotel. The hotel owner, Mr. Norboo, found a stone (size of a chicken egg) stuck somewhere near the shock absorber and removed it. We thanked him for what the mechanic previous day could not find. The rattling sound was almost gone now. However, he advised us to get the leaking shock absorber fixed in Leh.
08:00 Breakfast at Agham.
13:00 Reached Pangong Tso. We didn't go up to Spangmik.
13:30 Lunch at Paradise restaurant, near the lake.
14:30 Started to Leh.
17:00 Most difficult stretch of the entire trip, Chang La Pass. Some people had to push the vehicle once because the slope was too steep and the road was very slippery (sand, stones, etc.)
21:30 Reached Leh, checked into Park View Guest House and had dinner there itself. This guest house was advised by the tourism officials; it was very good! Perhaps it was one of the best places we halted in the trip (others were Horcho guest house in Hunder and Bhimkali temple complex in Sarahan).

28 September
08:30 Breakfast at the guest house.
09:30 Car service, got the front left shock absorber replaced at Mintokling.
13:00 Car wash. Meanwhile, we went for some time to the tourist reception office for information regarding roads, places, etc. We decided to skip Tso Moriri, Tso Kar, Hanle, and Dha Hanu. Our car had endured enough by now.
15:30 Lunch at Lamayuru restaurant in Leh Market.
16:30 Shopping sweaters, jackets, gloves, etc. In Leh Market.
18:30 Visited Zorawar Fort. Saw the museum within a few minutes. Then we saw the sound and light show. Not great, there were just around 10 people for the show here, compared to more than a hundred at Hall of Fame.
21:00 Dinner at guesthouse.

29 September
08:30 Breakfast in the guest house.
09:30 Started from the guest house.
10:00 Full tank diesel.
11:00 Patthar Sahib gurudwara.
11:30 Magnetic hill. We thought it was just an illusion.
14:00 Lunch at Wakha, on the way to Kargil.
18:00 Snacks at Dras. Omelets, chocolates, etc. More like an alternative to dinner.
21:30 Drove through Zojila pass in rain.

30 September
00:30 Bypassed Srinagar.
02:30 Reached Ramban. The place where we wanted to halt for the night. However, all the hotels were closed and locked. Even after banging doors or gates, no one responded. So we gave up after some time and decided to move forward to Jammu, our next day's destination.
04:30 Raining hard. Difficult to stay awake and focus. So stopped in the Truck Lay By to take a nap.
06:30 Woken up by a soldier who inquired about whether we had any problems with the vehicle. We thanked him for the concern and told that we couldn't drive in the night while it was raining so hard. We started to Jammu, which was around 50 km away.
07:30 Entered Jammu.
08:30 Fresh up (wash face, brush teeth, etc.) and breakfast at Kashmir Flavors Restaurant in Jammu.
10:00 Some shopping at Residency Road. Sweater, Walnuts, etc.
13:00 Lunch at a nearby restaurant.
14:30 Raghunathji temple.
15:00 Full tank diesel.
19:00 We reached Amritsar and checked into Hotel Heritage Inn near Golden Temple.
20:00 Visited the temple and had dinner in there. I was quite disappointed, given the hype.

01 October
10:00 Breakfast at Swaad n Swaag restaurant.
10:30 Jallianwalabagh.
11:30 Partition Museum.
12:30 Lunch in Golden Temple. Disappointed again. I was told lunch would be better.
14:00 Started to the Attari-Wagah Border.
17:00 Retreat ceremony.
18:30 Started back to Amritsar.
20:00 Dinner part one (fish and chicken starters) at Makhan Fish.
21:00 Dinner part two (Amritsari kulcha Thali) at Kesar Da Dhaba. This was extremely difficult, had to stuff down the throat.
23:00 Back to Hotel.

02 October
08:00 Breakfast at Kulchianwala near Golden Temple.
08:30 Sree Durgiana Tirath.
09:30 Param Pujya Mata Devi Lal mandir. Experienced Gufa for the first time.
10:00 Gobindgarh Fort. 7D show Sher-e-Punjab. Live performances of Bhangra dance, combat, weapon skills, etc. Pagri Museum.
12:30 Lunch at Bharwan-da-Dhaba near Partition Museum.
13:30 Started from Amritsar.
14:30 Gurudwara Chheharta Sahib.
17:30 Reached War memorial. Jang-e-Azaad near Jalandhar. However, we didn't take the ticket to go in since they close in less than an hour and based on reviews we got to know that it would take us much more than an hour to see everything.
18:00 Devi Talab Temple.
21:30 Checked into Samrat hotel in Ludhiana.

03 October
08:30 Breakfast in the hotel itself.
09:00 Gurudwara Dukh Nivaran Sahib.
10:00 Shopping at Akal Market. Sweaters, T-shirts, jackets, tops, dress material, etc.
13:30 Lunch at Friend Restaurant in the Akal market.
14:30 Shopping continued.
21:30 Dinner at Baba Chicken restaurant. Had the best ever Butter Chicken.
23:00 Lassi at Aman Chicken restaurant.

04 October
06:30 Breakfast in the hotel itself, and checked out.
07:00 Started.
10:00 Kurukshetra Panorama museum.
12:00 Sri Krishna museum.
12:30 Lunch in the nearby canteen.
13:30 Brahma Sarovar.
14:30 Shaktipeeth Shri Devikoop Bhadrakali Mandir.
15:00 Started from Kurukshetra.
16:30 Shree Devi Mandir. Panipat.
17:00 Panipat Battle Field Memorial. It was more of a park, with people playing volleyball, jogging, taking rest, etc.
17:30 Started from Panipat.
21:00 Reached Sonipat.
22:00 Checked in to Subhash Guest House.
22:30 Dinner at Regards Restaurant.

05 October
05:30 Started from Sonipat.
06:30 Diesel full tank at Delhi.
07:00 Breakfast at Tara Kitchen, in a Tibetan community.
08:00 Started to Agra.
11:30 Agra Fort.
14:30 Lunch at Pinch of Spice restaurant.
16:00 Visited Taj Mahal.
19:00 Came out.
20:00 Went to Chaat Gali. Bought Petha sweets. We had Chaat and Faluda for dinner at some famous places.
21:00 Checked in to Hotel Safari.
22:00 Poor sleep due to a lot of mosquitoes.

06 October
05:30 Breakfast in the hotel itself. This was the most terrible food we had on the trip. Parathas were like chapatis. Curd was stale.
06:00 Started from Agra.
15:00 Lunch at Jaltarang Dhaba near Sagar, MP.
18:30 Checked into Hotel Shree Sharada Palace in Narsinghpur MP.
20:00 Dinner at a nearby restaurant. Masala Dosa and Pineapple juice.

07 October
07:30 Started from Narsinghpur MP.
08:00 Diesel full tank.
08:30 Breakfast opposite the railway station. Poha and Jalebi.
13:30 Lunch at MHKS near Nagpur.
20:30 Dinner at Malgudi restaurant, near Kamareddy.
23:00 Reached home (Hyderabad).

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